Natural Dyes & Living Colour
Pomegranate, Henna, and Indigo on Atlas Wool
Abstract
Synthetic aniline dyes flooded Moroccan markets after 1910, muting the chromatic vocabulary of Amazigh weaving. This field report documents a full return to botanical dyeing at Atelier des Atlas: the recipes, mordants, and fastness tests that deliver museum-grade colour while meeting EU Reach regulations for heavy-metal-free textiles.
1. Historical Context
Pre-colonial dye baths in the Middle Atlas relied on seasonal plants: punica granatum (pomegranate) for terracotta, wild indigofera tinctoria for midnight blues, and fermented henna lawsonia for earthen reds. Oral records from Aït Bouguemez describe “seven-day vats” where wool steeped to align with lunar waxing—believed to lock colour into fibre consciousness.
2. Materials & Methods
| Dye Source | Plant Part / Dye Vat | Mordant | Resulting Hue | Light-fast Score* |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pomegranate skins | 30 % WOF** in alkaline vat | Alum 8 % | Terracotta #7B5833 | 4/5 |
| Lawsonia henna | Fresh leaf mash, pH 6.2 | Iron 1 % | Brick red #A34832 | 5/5 |
| Indigo leaves | Fermented fructose vat | None (reduction) | Deep indigo #28324B | 4/5 |
| Safflower petals | Solar vat, 48 h | Alum 10 % | Saffron gold #D8AA4B | 3/5 |
*ISO 105-B02 Blue Scale. **WOF = Weight of Fibre.
Procedure summary (Indigo example):
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De-oxygenate vat with fructose 20 g/L and hydrated lime 3 g/L.
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Maintain 55 °C ± 2 °C for 30 min.
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Dip skeins 2 min; oxidise 5 min. Repeat ×3 for full depth.
3. Sustainability Metrics
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Water use: 8 L/kg fibre (60 % less than acid-dye process).
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pH-neutral discharge after natural soda-ash neutralisation—meets Moroccan Decree 2-04-553.
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Zero heavy metals (Cu, Cr, Sn) confirmed by ICP-MS lab report #ADO-2025-05.
4. Case Study — Terracotta on Beni M’Guild
Sample: Acc 23-BM-06, 240 × 160 cm
• Wool pre-mordanted in alum 8 %, cream of tartar 2 %.
• Dyed with pomegranate 30 % WOF at 90 °C for 60 min.
• Post-bath henna glaze (1 % iron) added depth.
Δ E 2000 shift after 40 h sun-fade test: 1.9 (imperceptible).
5. Design Palette for Clients
| Palette Name | Colour Swatch | Glyph Application |
|---|---|---|
| Atlas Dawn | Cream #F5F0E9 + Terracotta #7B5833 | Single lozenge + hillside path |
| Tifinagh Night | Indigo #28324B + Ivory | Zigzag river / script border |
| Sahara Ember | Brick #A34832 + Saffron #D8AA4B | Tree-comb & lozenge frame |
Clients may select up to four botanical hues per custom commission; mixed synthetic palettes are not offered.
6. Conclusion
Natural dyeing is not nostalgia—it is material ethics. By re-adopting pomegranate, henna and indigo, Atelier des Atlas safeguards groundwater, worker health, and chromatic authenticity. The palette you step on carries soil memory from the Atlas, not a chemical plant.
Citations
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C. Le Coq, Teintures Végétales du Maghreb (1975).
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Atelier des Atlas Dye Log, Vol. IV (2024).
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ISO 105-B02 Light-fastness Testing Standard.